Caring for your dog

1/  The Greyhound is one of the oldest  of all dog breeds, and his type has altered remarkably little during the seven thousand years
during  which they are known to have been cherished for speed, and kept by men for running down the gazelle or coursing the hare.

 2/ The earliest references to  the greyhound are far back in the primitive ages, long before he was depicted by Assyrian artists, straining at the leash or racing after his prey across the desert sands.

 3/ Egyptians loved him and appreciated him centuries before the pyramids were built.

 4/ King Solomon referred to him (Proverbs xxx. 31) as being among the four things which “go well and are comely in going:–

 (i) A lion, which is strongest among beasts, and turneth not away from any;
(ii) A Greyhound;
(iii) A he goat
(iv) A king against whom there is no rising up.”

 5/ Greeks, whose artists were fond of introducing this graceful animal as an ornament in their decorative workmanship. In their metal work, their carvings in ivory and stone, and more particularly as parts in the designs on their terra-cotta oil bottles, wine coolers, and other vases, the Greyhound is frequently to be seen, sometimes following the hare, and always in remarkably characteristic attitudes. Usually these Greek Greyhounds are represented with prick ears, but occasionally the true rose ear is shown.

6/  It was not until the reign of Queen Elizabeth that coursing in England was conducted under established rules. These were drawn up by the then Duke of Norfolk. The sport quickly grew in favour, and continued to increase in popularity until the first coursing club was established at Swaffham in 1776. Then in 1780 the Ashdown Park Meeting came into existence. The Newmarket Meeting in 1805 was the next fixture that was inaugurated, and this now remains with the champion stakes as its most important event. Afterwards came the Amesbury Meeting in 1822, but Amesbury, like Ashdown, although for many years one of the most celebrated institutions of the description, has fallen from its high estate. Three years later came the Altcar Club. But it was not until eleven years after this period that the Waterloo Cup was instituted (in 1836), to win which is the highest ambition of followers of the leash.

7/ The National Coursing Club was established in 1858, when a stud book was commenced, and a code of laws drawn up for the regulation of coursing meetings. This is recognised in Australia and other parts of the world where coursing meetings are held. The Stud Book, of which Mr. W. F. Lamonby is the keeper, contains particulars of all the best-known Greyhounds in the United Kingdom, and a dog is not allowed to compete at any of the large meetings held under Coursing Club rules unless it has been duly entered with its pedigree complete. In fact, the National Coursing Club is more particular in connection with the pedigrees of Greyhounds being correctly given, than the Kennel Club is about dogs that are exhibited; and that is saying a great deal. It holds the same position in coursing matters as the Jockey Club does in racing. It is in fact, the supreme authority on all matters connected with coursing.

8/ Various opinions have been advanced as to the best size and weight for a Greyhound. Like horses, Greyhounds run in all forms, and there is no doubt that a really good big one will always have an advantage over the little ones; but it is so difficult to find the former, and most of the chief winners of the Waterloo Cup have been comparatively small. Coomassie was the smallest Greyhound that ever won the blue ribbon of the leash; she drew the scale at 42 lbs., and was credited with the win of the Cup on two occasions. Bab at the Bowster, who is considered by many good judges to have been the best bitch that ever ran, was 2 lbs. more; she won the Cup once, and many other stakes, as she was run all over the country and was not kept for the big event. Master McGrath was a small dog, and only weighed 53 lbs., but he won the Waterloo Cup three times. Fullerton, who was a much bigger dog, and was four times declared the winner of the Cup, was 56 lbs. in weight.

9/ There are very few Greyhounds that have won the Waterloo Cup more than once, but Cerito was credited with it three times, namely, in 1850, 1852, and 1853, when it was a thirty-two dog stake.

10/  It appears like descending from the sublime to the laughable to mention the Greyhound as a show dog, after the many magnificent performances that have been recorded of him in the leash, but there are many dogs elegant in outline with fine muscular development that are to be seen in the judging ring. Mr. George Raper’s Roasting Hot is one of the most spectacular winners of the day; he is a fawn and white, as handsome as a peacock and, moreover, is a good dog in the field. On one occasion after competing successfully at the Kennel Club Show at the Crystal Palace, he was taken to a coursing meeting where he won the stake in which he was entered.

Although, as a rule, the most consistent winners in the leash have not been noted for their good looks, there have been exceptions in which the opposite has been the case. Fullerton was a good-looking dog, if not quite up to the form required in the show ring. Mr. Harding Cox has had several specimens that could run well and win prizes as show dogs, and the same may be said of Miss Maud May’s fine kennel of Greyhounds in the North of England. In the South of England Mrs. A. Dewe keeps a number of longtails that when not winning prizes at the Crystal Palace and elsewhere are running at Plumpton and other meetings in Sussex.

Dogs can live a long and healthy life with only three legs, but naturally if some other of his healthy limbs begins to decline in any form or manner, this can cause a serious mobility problem.  Dogs learn to adapt quickly, but remember the three remaining legs need time to build up strength, so increase exercise bit by bit.  Most  seem to do pretty well on three legs, partially as they don’t appear to have the worry of it like we do, they just get on with it.  Some dogs recover  better than others, depending upon their size ,  age and other physical troubles.  (usually smaller dogs have an easier time)

The most significant challenge for a triped (or should that be tri-pawed?) dog owners it seems, is to protect the remaining limbs. Often people will allow the dog to overdo things, and that results in putting undue stress on the dog’s joints, which can result in injuries and arthritis.

 Although most dogs  will bounce back to normal reasonably soon after an amputation, and exhibit  vigorous energy and excitement, you still need to take care and exercise caution in order to assist him prevent injuries, leastways initially.  It is better to employ a harness and maintain his healthy legs strong rather than creating a state of affairs where the dog will be immobile for the remainder of his life.

Seeing a contented and bouncy dog walk down the street on three legs is a reminder that an amputation doesn’t have to be the end of the world. 

So when exercising bear in mind:

• Protect the remaining limbs as much as possible.
• Pay attention to the condition of the dog’s skin and pads
• Exercise the dog regularly (walking is good; swimming is best)
• Monitor the dog’s activity level and don’t let him or her overdo it
• For front leg amputations, use a harness with wide chest bands rather than a collar.
• Assist or monitor the dog on stairs
• Keep the dog’s weight down
• Maintain a good diet and good overall health
• Give glucosamine, fish oils and other anti-inflammatory supplements
• If necessary invest in a “wheelchair,” if necessary, to help with mobility

In the same way as the quality of your diet impacts on the quality of your life, what you feed your dog will have a direct affect on how he or she feels, looks and behaves. A princely, glossy coat, vigour to run and play, and healthy weight can maximise your dog’s life expectancy and calibre of life into old age.

Organic dog food is gaining ground in popularity very much like organic eating for human beings is. This organic dog food is becoming increasingly popular these days as it’s regarded not only to be good for your health but environmentally friendly as well which in today’s world of ‘clean and green’ is a plus factor.

Organic dog food has several noted advantages over conventional dog food.

* Organic dog food is free of artificial colours and flavour enhancers, chemical additives and toxic pesticides which potentially could be the source of your dog’s allergies.

* Organic pet food is made with pure ingredients such as whole grains and top-quality meats rather than fillers and additives encountered in commercial foods; so it’s easy to digest.

* Organic foods are plentiful in nutrients with great things like organic chicken, organic fish and organic vegetables, so facilitate a longer, healthier life.

* Organic food will improve the immune system of the dog.

Although a bit more expensive, it’s more often than not reckoned to be money advantageously spent as a healthy diet is the key factor in keeping your dog healthy and by your side for many years to come.

Read more here

Although it’s not a dog related issue, I know that some of you are looking for a way to recoup some of the losses suffered during the recent lean times.  If you think that selling on ebay might be for you, but you’re not sure about certain aspects then read on.

For the preceding few months, I’ve been looking for for videos with resell rights that I could  resell in the ‘business opportunity’ niche, and no niche is more red-hot than than selling on eBay at present because as the recession compounds, increasingly many people are wanting to try and  make money online (specifically eBay).

One product that I discovered is Francis Ochoco’s video recording series entitled, “Live eBay Training Videos”.

If you have never learned of Francis Ochoco, he was presented with the first ever ‘eBay Entrepreneur Of The Year’ award some years ago.

“Live eBay Training Videos” is a course on a set of 28 videos that show Francis selling on eBay in real time.
I’m really amazed that he’s letting out these videos free of charge because it is my view that this is the most expert eBay course of instruction I have seen in years.

Not only he is letting out these videos free of charge, but he is also giving away Resell Rights gratis.  This means that you will be able to resell these videos yourself and retain 100% of the profits.

The videos are really detailed so it won’t surprise me if your 9 year old youngster begins selling on eBay directly after seeing these videos.

If you’ve ever bought resell rights to ebay video tutorials before, I’m sure you’ll find there was little, if anything, spectacular about them.  (This is because they were produced by ordinary people who haven’t had any substantial success on eBay)

So I should emphasise that if you are seeking a hot product that you can resell in a hot niche, make certain that it was produced by a person that has been successful in that niche.

That being said, I highly recommend Francis Ochoco’s “Live eBay Training Videos”. 

Best of all, it is free. 

To see the titles for each of the 28 videos in “Live eBay Training Videos”, go to http://www.auctiontutor.co.uk

Back to the dogs next time.

Regards,

Keith

Click on my picture to find out more about me!

The bulldog is acknowledged to have resided in the UK for several centuries.  They are a smaller form, and a descendent of the Mastiff.  The first known use of the description “Bulldog” was probably around 1631 in a letter from Prestwich Eaton to George Wellingham in St Swithin’s Lane, London.      “….. for a good Mastive Dogge, a case of bottles replenished with the best lickour, and pray proceur mee two good bulldoggs and let them be sent by ye first shipp.”

I assume the name “Bulldog” originated from the breed’s association with the popular “sport” of Bull-baiting.   The object of the activity is that the dog should pin and hold the bull by the muzzle and not release it.   Naturally, when held by this very tender part, the bull was effectively helpless.  In order to achieve this the dog had to wait for the bull to lower it’s head to use the horns and then seize the bull by the muzzle.  Therefore the dog had in the parlance of the day, to “play low”. Hence larger dogs, like the Mastiff were at a disadvantage.  The height of these dogs was about sixteen inches and they would weigh, typically, 45 pounds with a broad muscular body. 

When the law intervened and banned Bull-Baiting the “sportsmen” started to train their bulldogs for dog-fighting.  In order to encourage more quickness of movement many bulldogs were crossed with terriers. However some fanciers continued to rely on the pure breed.   The main venues for these exhibitions were in London at the Westminster Pit, the Bear Garden at Bankside and the Old Conduit Fields at Bayswater.  It is on record that Lord Camelford’s Bulldog, Belcher fought one hundred and four battles without once suffering defeat. 

The law stepped in again and interest in the activity began to fade.  By 1824 even the main breeders were losing interest, and it was stated that Wasp, Child and Billy, The Duke of Hamilton’s dogs, were the only remaining bulldogs in existence and that the breed would disappear on their demise.  Modern day bulldog lovers will be glad that this opinion was incorrect. 

1859 saw the onset of the dog-show era.  A class for bulldogs was included and this offered a motivation to breed them.  There were still fanciers around.  Primarily in London, Birmingham, Sheffield, Manchester and Dudley.  It is to those people that we are indebted for the various specimens of the breed that exist today. 

The usual weight for a grown bulldog is around 50 pounds.   The coat should be close, smooth and fine in texture. Silky when stroked from head to tail, but not wiry when stroked from tail to head.  It must be realised that there are many strains of bulldog that are constitutionally unsound.  Therefore the novice should take great care in the purchase of his first bulldog.  There is too much to discuss in this article, but you can find out more by clicking on the picture above. 

Two main variations: 

1/ The miniature Bulldog: 

Some years ago “toy” or as the Kennel Club requires them to be called “miniature” bulldogs weighing about fifteen or sixteen pounds were made popular primarily by the Lace Makers of Nottingham.   They soon lost popularity as many of the lace makers moved to France where there was work to be had in the new Lace-making factories around Normandy.  The miniature breed was, however, re-introduced to this country in about 1898 by a group of enthusiasts.  It was immediately apparent that whilst very attractive, many of the finer points of the breed had been lost.   After a Toy Bulldog Club had been formed a great deal of work and discussion took place to reform the breed to resemble the larger variety but at a weight of about 22 pounds. 

These miniature bulldogs make faithful and devoted companions.  They maintain a keen interest in all people and surroundings, but do not bark excessively.  As puppies they can be a little delicate and may require constant care and supervision.  They particularly dislike cold and damp.

 2/ The French Bulldog (Bouledogue Francais) 

As indicated above, this strain originated in the UK and is an offshoot of the miniature bulldog.  It does not replicate the bulldog seen in this country today, but that of the 1850’s.  The tulip-eared and short under jawed specimens.   There are superficial similarities between the French and British Miniature Bulldogs, but due to disputes about their essential differences they are given their own class at shows under  Bouledogue Francais

Whilst many dog rescue organisations are overloaded with dogs, and would love you to adopt one, first consider this.  There is an ongoing commitment to owning a pet.  You must make time to exercise, feed and groom your new pal. Below I set out the basic needs as regards bathing and grooming.  It’s not difficult, although some may prefer to leave the nail trimming to a professional. If you think you can programme the following into your daily timetable then let’s get started.

Bathing a dog needs to be given some consideration. This is because of the fact that if you are careless in bathing, the animal may finish up having some infections. For instance, if you don’t close the ears with large cotton ball, the water may enter into ear canals and may cause some ear infections with signs like constant discharge from the ears and shaking of head.

 Frequency of bathing actually depends on the breed of the dog. If the dog is of a hairy type like the cocker spaniel , then the bathing is to be carried out once in six to eight weeks. If these breeds are bathed too frequently, then the skin and coat lose the protective characteristics.  However, if the dog has defecated on the skin due to  frequent digestive upsets leading to diarrhoea, to avoid the bad smell, the dog may be subjected to more frequent bathing.     

Take care to avoid some irritant or human soaps. The soap materials used for human beings are not usually suitable for dogs.  Similarly, many human shampoo products contain the same ingredients that are not suitable. Hence, always try to use the shampoo products that are mentioned mainly for use in dogs. Take additional care in using any new or previously untried product.  

Always have plenty of time available and collect together all the products you will need for bathing your dog in one place, together with a suitable water source.  Most dogs love the sprinkling of water, rivers, etc.  Even when you are using bathtub, have everything in one place and then start bathing of the dog. Try to have a leash, conditioner, towel, and shampoo immediately available to hand in the bathing place. 

Conditioner is helpful to make the combing activity easier later. Bathing should be a convenient activity to both the dog and the owner. This should not be a burden. 

 Clipping your dog 

Many dog owners regard clipping as only a mechanical activity. Few understand that clipping a dog is an art.  Clipping a coat or nail needs to be performed in a careful manner to avoid injuries to the skin or nail.  Clipping of the coat is to be attended to as appropriate for the breed. If the coat is not properly clipped, this may lead to dust accumulation and the animal may start showing signs of skin problems.  This is true especially when the grooming activities done badly. 

Clipping of the coat helps to eliminate the parasitic burden to some extent and also, the clipping of your dog is useful to reveal at an early stage, any parasitic problem that the dog is likely to suffer. Many pet health & beauty parlours are available wherein the clipping of dogs will be carried out in a more systematic manner. 

Always take advantage of a sharp clipper and in the winter seasons, avoid close clipping. The reason for this is that close clipping in the winter seasons may expose the dog to the environmental stresses like the cold climate.  Hence, the dog may become more vulnerable to frostbite.  Also avoid too close clipping of nails because this may cause injury to the underlying tissues and may cause painful bleeding.  

Avoid any clipping activity when the animal is not in healthy condition. Clipping instruments are available in many pet shops. Avoid blunt instruments because they might not clip well and therefore, repetition would be required. Always use modern equipments for clipping activities.  

To sum up then:- 

Grooming is among the important activities to be acknowledged by the dog owner. If the dog owner is not aware of the need for regular grooming, then the dog may encounter many types of diseases. 

The basic steps of grooming includes activities like maintenance of coat, nails and ears. 

The maintenance of the coat mainly consists of enrichment measures like proper bathing, combing, drying of skin by dryers, and more. The animal should not be bathed daily as this might destroy the skin’s natural characteristics like insulation properties. 

Use conditioners and shampoos that are meant for dogs.  Combing needs to be carried out with a soft brush meant for use on dogs. There are many varieties of brushes available catering for all types of breeds, one should use the appropriate brush.  This grooming of the coat by a comb needs to be carried out daily and the fallen hair, if any, needs to be placed in the rubbish bin immediately. Otherwise, if there is any breeze the hair will fly and may enter the nostrils of humans. Similarly, as with bathing, you need to assemble all the materials required for the clipping with you, before you start. 

Use a sharp clipper designed for use with dogs. It is better to have the dog on the raised platform or table, as most dogs seem to be better behaved in this situation, and hence the control of the animal is easier. 

Ear canals are to be checked up frequently and sterile cotton may be used for cleaning purposes. Grooming guidelines associated with your breed need to be strictly followed.  

Nail maintenance is also one of the first steps of grooming activities. Live nail areas can be easily clipped away and are always lighter-coloured than the reddish area of the nail in the higher position. Never clip overmuch because this may lead to injuries of nail tissues. During the holding of your dog’s feet by you, always have a firm grip. If not, the dog will take an upper hand during the clipping and some injury may occur. Also don’t forget the dew claw about a third of the way up the leg!

Dog Grooming