Dog crates are great training tool for dogs in the early stages of growth and are recommended by most breeders and dog trainers.  Dog crates are also a fantastic way to easily housebreak a puppy. On the whole, a good dog crate is an invaluable training tool regardless of what type of puppy you own.

Choosing the right crate for your dog is important. If you consider the size of your dog, the material the crate is made of, what you should fit it with and whether it’s portable or not, you’ll find a pleasing answer for both you and your dog from the huge choice of transport dog crates available today.

Wire dog crates have excellent ventilation. For this reason they are often preferred in hot, humid climates, especially for dogs that have a lot of hair or are inclined to overheat.

Metal dog crates are what you need if you’re going to crate train or keep your dog out of bother when you run to the shop. However, a metal crate isn’t an attractive piece for your bedroom or living room. Metal crates are not usually foldable, and storing them can be a pain. Though you might be able to store them in your attic, but they’d consume a lot of space and would also not be ideal when you are travelling. Metal dog crates are like the ones you see in a pet store: they’re great to keep dogs separated from other animals or people. They always incorporate a bottom tray to make the cleaning process a lot easier and the best of all is that they’re available in small to large sizes so your dog won’t have to feel uncomfortable.

Plastic kennels are good for travel, and are generally the only method of containment permitted by airlines. Metal wire dog crates are ideal for home use, however. Plastic dog crates usually come with handles on top, which makes it great to carry small dogs in.

Soft dog cages are capable of being used outdoors as well as  indoors. These cages should only be used outside when the weather is right as almost all soft cages are manufactured using fabric. Soft sided crates for dogs are not recommended for active chewers, aggressive dogs or outside in severe weather. Attractive furniture grade real wood crates for dogs offer a stylish option for crating your dog at home. Soft-side dog crates work best if you need to take your dog crate with you when travelling, holidaying or just running around town although they can also be used at home too.

Airlines have strict guidelines as to what type of crate they will carry. If it is absolutely essential that a dog needs to travel in an airplane make certain that the crate is approved by the airline. Airline crates are constructed out of hard plastic and have solid panels. They offer more sense of security for your puppy than wire crates.

Dog crates are available for most combi cars but  if you have a very odd brand, you can sometimes have a crate custom made by the larger manufacturers or by a local sheet-metal workers.

 Dog crates are an excellent training tool for puppies and adult dogs, in addition they also represent a ‘den’ which their wolf ancestors used for comfort and shelter. A crate should be large enough for the dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably.

Dog Crates provide a safe way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as a way of taking him places where he may not be able to run freely. If you properly train your dog to use a dog crate, he’ll think his dog crate is a safe place and will be happy to spend time in his dog crate when needed.

 Care needs to be taken that dogs are taken out often enough to relieve themselves and ensure that they get adequate exercise. Used properly, they are wonderful tools in managing dogs.

Puppies should go no longer than 2 hours at a time due to their small bladders (you should start out pottying them at least every hour, however). Also, NEVER put them in wire dog cages with a collar on, as it can be a strangle hazard. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that crating doesn’t become associated with social isolation.

best dog crates

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They say that dogs are not just for Christmas, though this applies to all animals, especially those little white fluffy balls called Angoras who need love and care long after the Christmas wrappings have all been packed away, and Christmas forgotten about.  Dog wardens all over the country are preparing for another festive season of finding  pets new homes and reminding people that dogs are for life, not just for Christmas.   If you’re thinking of getting a dog why not wait a while.  There will be plenty looking for a new home soon, and they, together with the dog charities that rescue them will be extremely grateful that you can help.   If you already have a dog, try to keep things as normal as possible over Christmas.  Too many visitors, rowdiness or noise etc. can unsettle many pets.  So why not let your pet enjoy Christmas too,  by buying a new toy to keep him or her occupied, possibly in a quieter area of the house.  Get some  ideas here.

1/ Akita is a breed of large dog that originated in Japan.  Akita is the original home of the Akita dog (Akita inu), the famously loyal dog of Hachiko fame.  The breed  is said to be a very well-mannered and dignified breed. The Akita is a very balanced looking dog, being only slightly longer than it is tall. 

2/ The Akita is a very ancient breed, tracing its history in Japan back more than 2500 years.  They are very intelligent and learn quickly, even as an adult dog. 

3/ The Akita dog is a large and strong breed  that has short to medium length of fur that can be quite fluffy.  Akita dogs do not need to be trimmed or shaved.  Akitas  that live indoors or cooler climates typically shed less.  The Akita has a double coat, the outer coat composed of straight  coarse hair, and the undercoat soft and dense. They are very well suited to the coldest of climates, and while it might not enjoy hot weather, its coat does lighten considerably in the warmer months to compensate for the heat. 

4/ Although the Akita is a large, powerful dog, with some males weighing over 100 pounds, they are usually docile, quiet, and need only a moderate amount of exercise and are considered a good  watchdog.  Akitas actually enjoy being an only dog and like most canines, they sleep when you’re not home. When you are home the typical pet Akita will follow you from room to room, yet has the uncanny ability not to be under foot. 

A large Powerful Dog

5/ Although the breed may tolerate and be good with children from his own family, if you do not teach this dog he is below all humans in the pack order he may not accept other children and if teased, Akitas may bite.  Any child that is allowed to run wild is an indication the family is not suitable for an Akita which needs firm rules and control.  A confident and consistent approach is required to train an Akita, but they do not respond well to harsh methods of training. 

6/ An Akita is not likely to show affection for  someone that is not a member of his family or a close friend that he sees often.  Also they are often  intolerant of other dogs, particularly of the same sex. 

7/ An Akita is an ideal hiking or walking dog and they are large and sturdy enough to handle even very difficult and challenging terrain.  Akitas usually take well to weight-pulling and sledding, though as a breed they are not highly represented in such activities.  The Akita’s soft mouth makes it possible for him to work as a waterfowl retrieval dog. 

8/ Although Akitas are generally healthy dogs they can be prone to skin problems and eye disease.  They  should be given a bath, only when absolutely necessary, with a mild shampoo to prevent stripping the coat of the natural oils, as frequent bathing removes the natural waterproofing of the coat.  Also they’re prone to developing thyroid or skin problems.  Hip dysplasia is a known problem and screening of the parents before breeding is a must.

9/ Twice daily feeding throughout their adult lives is recommended to lessen the chance of bloat .

10/ Akitas tend to be somewhat messy drinkers.

Learn more HERE

Dog Toys are among the best gifts you are able to buy  your dog, it keeps them happy and fit at the same time, whilst at the same time some toys can be unbelievably good  fun for the owner themselves too.

Dog playthings are able to keep a dog happy, mentally stimulated and also help burn up excess energy.  Dogs love to play and squeaky dog toys are hugely popular with many dogs. Interactive dog toys are astonishing learning toys for dogs, which can mentally stimulate your pet in an amusing and creative way. Squeaky dog toys are a great way to hold their interest rather than them chewing up the furniture.

Dog toys are actually more than just playthings, and are more beneficial than you may suppose.  However they’re not safe if small pieces can be chewed or pulled off as these could be swallowed by the dog. The toy should also be adequate for the dog, taking into consideration their size and activity levels.

Chewing toys are also very important for teething puppies or adult dogs who simply like to chew. If a dog does not have a chew toy, he may use your shoes or other possessions instead. Chewing is necessary for your dog to maintain healthy teeth and jaws. It’s also a very useful distraction from boredom and a means of focusing their concentration and superfluous energy.

Kong Dog Toys are one of the toughest, most hard-wearing solid rubber dog toys available. The Kong range of natural rubber dog toys are irresistible to dogs and provide hours of fun. Their design causes it to bounce unpredictably in every direction. Your dog will love his this sort of  toy  just as it comes  or filled with a special treat.  You are able to stuff the hollow end with kibble, treats, peanut butter, dog food, cheese etc.

Rope dog toys are also great playthings for your older pet while you’re away, as it gives them something to play with, without shredding your things. Rope chew toys are known for being beneficial in helping keep teeth clean, and they are a must for any teething puppy.

Warm enough to play outside today!

I know this blog is primarily about dogs, but I know a lot of you are keen on horses and riding too.  If that is you then please don’t miss out on this soon to be released DVD by Jenny Rolfe.  It’s called Ride From the Heart – The Art of Communication.  You can see a preview of it at the link below. (Not an affiliate link!)

http://www.spanishdressagehorses.co.uk/movie/delfin_dancing.php

  How can you help them?

It might be possible for small animals in cages or hutches to be taken indoors.  If so, the cage should ideally be placed with the most open side to the wall and not facing a window where the flashes outside would be too easily seen.  Cats should be kept indoors.  Of course all animals deserve our consideration at this time of year, but I am mainly concerned here about dogs.

When scared by flashes and bangs almost any animal might escape and run off.  Therefore it is essential that your dog has an identity tag with your contact details on it at the very least.  Microchipping is always ideal.

If your dog is frightened by fireworks you should take it seriously, as in many cases if you handle the situation badly it can lead to a kind of phobia.  If that happens then long lasting behavioural problems can ensue.

So don’t shout or chastise your frightened dog.  That makes as much sense as shouting at a human who is suffering a panic attack.  It will only worsen the situation.   Praise the animal when it is calm, but don’t overdo it.  Avoid picking your dog up or making too much fuss when it is distressed, as as this could give your dog the impression that you are scared too.  Probably your best course of action is to allow your pet to settle in a den of it’s own choosing and maintain the atmosphere as near normal as possible.

There are many products available from pet shops and vets that can help stress and anxiety in dogs.  These include tablets, Pheromones, homeopathic remedies and more, so take some advice from suppliers or other dog owners and stock up soon.

Dog Information

You're not going to light those things are you?

Like people, animal’s bodies become accustomed to the climate they live in. Getting used to the cold is harder when we’re exposed to frequent changes in temperature – one minute warm, the next minute cold. It’s usually recommended that a dog meant to live outside should be kept outside much of the time. This doesn’t mean, though, that your dog must stay out constantly during periods of extreme cold or inclement weather. Please do bring your dog in when it’s not fit outside for man nor beast!

Although dogs do maintain a normal blood heat that’s a couple of degrees higher than a human’s temperature, we still have to give them some help to stay warm in cold weather.

Start with a small, cozy, insulated dog house. The house needs to be small to trap and hold your dog’s body heat which will help keep him warm through the night. It should be just large enough for your dog to stand, turn around and lay in comfortably. The house can be homemade but new insulated plastic models available today are inexpensive and designed especially for comfort in cold weather.

Put the house in a sheltered location out of the wind. Make use of the sun’s warmth by putting it on the east or south side of your home. Placing it on a low platform to keep it off the frozen ground particularly concrete will help. The house should have a door or heavy flap over the entrance to exclude drafts.

Blankets and quilts are okay for people inside heated homes but outside, they trap moisture that can make your dog damp, chilly and uncomfortable. A more effective bedding is fresh clean hay or straw. They allow moisture to evaporate, retain warmth, are biodegradable and cost only a few pounds a bale. They are readily available from farm supply and feed stores, stables, or local farmers. When buying straw or hay remember that it should smell fresh and pleasant like dried grass clippings. Avoid any that smells strongly of mold or mildew. Spread the bedding generously in the kennel, four-to-five inches thick, and replace as needed.

Hypothermia and frostbite are a real danger, Hypothermia is a lowering of the core body temperature well below the dog’s normal 101.5-102.5 normal temperature. Significant lowering of the temperature interferes with the metabolic functions of the body and affects the internal organs. A dog’s first reaction to this is to shiver. Shivering increases muscle activity, which in turn increases heat production. At the same time, his blood circulation shifts away from his legs and feet to his internal organs.

Mild hypothermia causes an increase in blood pressure and pulse rate, but if the time and severity of heat loss continues, heart rate and blood pressure go down and cardiac arrhythmias or cardiac arrest can occur. Severe hypothermia leads to respiratory depression, lethargy, lack of coordination, paralysis, and collapse.

Treatment for hypothermia usually involves rapid warming of the body. In mild cases, heating pads, hot water bottles, or a warm water bath will work, but severe cases require introducing warmed fluids internally via intravenous flow, dialysis, or enema. Veterinarians may also use other techniques and monitor the dog for heart arrhythmias and pneumonia and check for frostbite.

Prolonged exposure to the cold can also cause frostbite and the death of tissue in the extremities. Dog toes, ear tips, tails,and scrotum are the more common frostbite areas. Frostbitten tissue appears pale and is cold to the touch. It should be rewarmed slowly and given time to heal. It may turn red and swollen and be very painful as it heals. If it doesn’t heal in three or four days, amputation of the dead tissue should be done to avoid gangrene or mummification of the area.

Obviously, prevention is much better than any cure with hypothermia and frostbite. So take some simple precautions:

If yours is an outside dog with a thick double coat, is accustomed to frigid winter weather and has a sheltered place to escape from wind and rain, he can probably stay outside regardless of what winter throws his way. But if he’s old, arthritic, or debilitated in some manner or if his coat’s not heavy enough, let him sleep inside when the temperature dips too close to freezing.

If your dog enjoys her daily outings, by all means continue, but look out for chemical ice-melting compounds on driveways, pavements and streets. If you can’t avoid them, wipe her feet when you return home so she doesn’t ingest the chemical when licking her paws. If the pavement is slushy, put some baby oil or vaseline on her feet before you start out to help prevent slush from forming between the pads of her paws.

If your pet is a puppy or geriatric dog, don’t leave him outside without supervision, especially in snow. Dog feet can get very cold very quickly, especially on thin-coated dogs, and you may have to rescue a shivering pet who cannot walk across the snow.

Winter diet

Dogs may tend to eat more during cold weather, but inclement weather may prevent them from getting enough exercise to burn up extra calories. If your dog begins begging at the table or looking particularly wistful when her dish is empty, beware of just letting her lick the plates or tossing her a morsel of cheese or chicken when you’re preparing dinner. If you’re not careful, she’ll need an exercise programme to slim her waist when spring arrives.

Table scraps can be fed to dogs without ill effects if they replace some of the regular diet, not add to it. Just avoid spicy or fatty foods and keep portions small. A quarter or third cup of boiled chicken meat or turkey giblets in broth or a couple of left-over veggies (unbuttered, without sauce) can be a real treat for a pooch tantalized by the good smells coming from the kitchen.

Food tends to sit around the house during the holidays. Dogs quickly learn about hard candy in a bowl on the coffee table or the box of chocolates that a relative sent over.

Also they learn to scrounge food from guests at a party or from children who drop Christmas cookie crumbs throughout the house. Some dogs will eat wrappers as well in their haste to down the prize before being discovered.

Most of us know that chocolate is poisonous to dogs, but the toxicity depends upon the amount of theobromine in the particular candy the dog has eaten. Dark chocolate and cooking chocolate tend to be high in the substance; milk chocolate tends to have little. Your dog might eat a piece or two of milk chocolate with few or no ill effects, but a
bar of cooking chocolate could kill her.

Even if the ill-gotten gains don’t poison a pooch, they can cause stomach upset, diarrhea, constipation, or intestinal blockages and are hardly worth the momentary acquiescence to pleading eyes and nagging of a hungry pet. Every successful food theft or begging session leads a pet
further down the path to a life of crime. So, as with anti-freeze, the best bet is to control the dog’s access to food throughout the season. It’s not difficult to keep bowls of snack food unreachable, to confine the dog when people are eating, or to clean up the crumbs after snacks and meals to avoid creating a food thief. As with many things in life, preventing problems usually takes less effort than solving them.

Outdoor water dishes

Dogs need fresh water available to them all day even in winter when they are vulnerable to dehydration. Metal objects conduct and lose heat quickly so switching to a heavy plastic dish will help. So will your choice of colour, container size and location. dark colours absorb heat from the sun and a deeper dish will freeze less quickly than a wide, shallow one. In areas where below-freezing temperatures are common, a more effective solution is an electric bucket heater or birdbath defroster.

Separation anxiety is one of the most common problems that
dogs develop. It’s an anxiety disorder, and is defined as a
state of intense panic brought on by the dog’s isolation/separation from her owner(s).

In other words: when you leave for work in the morning, your dog is plunged into a state of nervous anxiety which intensifies extremely quickly.

Dogs are social animals – they need plenty of company and social interaction to keep them happy and content. No dog likes to be left alone for long stretches of time, but some dogs do a lot worse than others: these are the ones most prone to separation anxiety.

There are a number of contributing causes to the condition:

- Some breeds are genetically predisposed towards anxiety and insecurity, which is something you should consider when deciding which breed you’re going to go for (particularly if you’re going to be absent for long stretches of time). A few of these breeds include Weimaraners, Springer Spaniels, German Shepherds, and Airedales

- A significant proportion of dogs from shelters develop separation anxiety. Most of these ‘shelter dogs’ have undergone significant trauma in their lives – they’ve been abandoned by their previous owners – and thus they have little trust that their new-found owner (you) isn’t going to pull the same trick.

- Dogs that were separated from their mothers and siblings too early have been identified as being especially prone to separation anxiety. Puppies from pet-stores are a perfect example of this: they’re usually taken from their mothers well before the earliest possible age (which is 8 weeks), and confined to a small glass box in the petstore for anywhere between a few weeks to two months. This early weaning, coupled with the lack of exercise and affection
while in the petstore, is psychologically traumatic for the dog.

- Neglect is the number-one cause of sepration anxiety for dogs. If you’re absent much more than you’re present in your dog’s life, separation anxiety is pretty much inevitable. Your dog needs your company, affection, and attention in order to be happy and content.

The symptoms of separation anxiety are pretty distinctive: your dog will usually learn to tell when you’re about to leave (she’ll hear keys jingling, will see you putting on your outdoor clothes, etc) and will become anxious. She may follow you from room to room, whining, trembling, and crying. Some dogs even become aggressive, in an attempt to stop their owners from leaving.

When you’ve left, the anxious behavior will rapidly worsen and usually will peak within half an hour. She may bark incessantly, scratch and dig at windows and doors (an attempt to escape from confinement and reunite herself with you), chew inappropriate items, even urinate and defecate inside the house. In extreme cases, she might self-mutilate by licking or chewing her skin until it’s raw, or pulling out fur; or will engage in obsessive-compulsive behaviors, like spinning and tail-chasing.

Upon your return, she’ll be excessively excited, and will leap around you in a frenzy of delight for a protracted period of time (more than the 30 seconds to one minute of a happy, well-balanced dog.)

This extended greeting is a source of some misunderstanding: without realizing that such a greeting actually signifies the presence of a psychological disorder, some owners actually encourage their dog to get more and more worked up upon their return (by fuelling the dog’s excitement, encouraging her to leap around, paying her protracted attention, and so on.)

If you’re behaving in this way with your dog, please stop. I know it’s tempting and very easy to do, and it seems harmless – after all, she’s so happy to see you, what harm can it do to return her attention and affection in equal measure? – but in actuality, you’re just validating her belief that your return is the high point of the day. So she’s as happy as Larry when you return – but, when it’s
time for you to leave again, her now-exaggerated happiness at your presence is under threat, and she gets even more unhappy when you walk out that door.

Fortunately, there are things you can do to minimize your dog’s tendency towards anxiety. Here’s a short list of do’s and don’ts:

Do:

- Exercise the heck out of her. Really wear her out: the longer you expect to be away, the more exercise she should get before you leave. For example, if you’re leaving for work in the morning, she’ll probably be by herself for at least four hours; and, if you’ve got a dog-walker to take her out mid-day instead of coming back yourself, she won’t see you – the person she really cares about – for at least nine hours. So she needs a good, vigorous walk (fifteen to twenty minutes is the absolute minimum here!) before you walk out that door. More is even better.

- Distract her from her boredom, loneliness, and anxiety by giving her an attractive alternative to pining, pacing, and whining. All dogs love to chew – why not play on this predisposition? Get a couple of marrowbones from the butcher, bake them in the oven for 20 minutes (so they go nice and hard and crunchy – and so she can’t smear marrow all over your furniture), slice them up into chunks of a few inches long, and give her one about 15 minutes before you leave. It’ll keep her happy and occupied, and will act
as a smokescreen for your departure.

- When you leave, put the radio on to a soothing station: classical music is ideal, but any station featuring lots of talk shows is also ideal. Keep the volume quite low, and it’ll calm her down a bit and give her the feeling that she’s got company.

- If at all possible, supply her with a view: if she can see the world going by, that’s the next best thing to being out and about in it.

- Acclimatize her to your leaving. Taking things nice and slowly, practice getting ready to go: jingle your keys about, put on your coat, and open the door. Then – without leaving! – sit back down and don’t go anywhere. Do this until she’s not reacting any more. When there’s no reaction, give her a treat and lavish praise for being so brave. Next, practice actually walking out the door (and
returning immediately), again doing this until there’s no
reaction. Gradually work up – gradually being the operative word here! – until you’re able to leave the house with no signs of stress from her.

Do not:

- Act overtly sympathetic when she’s crying. Although it sounds very cold-hearted, trying to soothe and comfort your dog by patting her and cooing over her is actually one of the worst things you can do: it’s essentially validating her concern. Make sure she can’t tell that you feel sorry for her: don’t ever say, “It’s OK, good girl” when she’s upset!

If you’re interested in getting a more detailed look at how to deal with your dog’s separation anxiety, you might like to check out SitStayFetch.

It’s a great learning tool for anyone who wants to learn how to deal constructively with their dog’s problem behaviors.

All of the common behavioral problems are dealt with in detail, and there’s a great section on obedience commands and tricks too.

Check out the SitStayFetch website here:

With reference to my earlier post about three legged dogs, Maddy made the news. Read about it here:-

http://www.quantock-veterinary-hospital.co.uk/news#news-36