Separation anxiety is one of the most common problems that
dogs develop. It’s an anxiety disorder, and is defined as a
state of intense panic brought on by the dog’s isolation/separation from her owner(s).

In other words: when you leave for work in the morning, your dog is plunged into a state of nervous anxiety which intensifies extremely quickly.

Dogs are social animals – they need plenty of company and social interaction to keep them happy and content. No dog likes to be left alone for long stretches of time, but some dogs do a lot worse than others: these are the ones most prone to separation anxiety.

There are a number of contributing causes to the condition:

- Some breeds are genetically predisposed towards anxiety and insecurity, which is something you should consider when deciding which breed you’re going to go for (particularly if you’re going to be absent for long stretches of time). A few of these breeds include Weimaraners, Springer Spaniels, German Shepherds, and Airedales

- A significant proportion of dogs from shelters develop separation anxiety. Most of these ‘shelter dogs’ have undergone significant trauma in their lives – they’ve been abandoned by their previous owners – and thus they have little trust that their new-found owner (you) isn’t going to pull the same trick.

- Dogs that were separated from their mothers and siblings too early have been identified as being especially prone to separation anxiety. Puppies from pet-stores are a perfect example of this: they’re usually taken from their mothers well before the earliest possible age (which is 8 weeks), and confined to a small glass box in the petstore for anywhere between a few weeks to two months. This early weaning, coupled with the lack of exercise and affection
while in the petstore, is psychologically traumatic for the dog.

- Neglect is the number-one cause of sepration anxiety for dogs. If you’re absent much more than you’re present in your dog’s life, separation anxiety is pretty much inevitable. Your dog needs your company, affection, and attention in order to be happy and content.

The symptoms of separation anxiety are pretty distinctive: your dog will usually learn to tell when you’re about to leave (she’ll hear keys jingling, will see you putting on your outdoor clothes, etc) and will become anxious. She may follow you from room to room, whining, trembling, and crying. Some dogs even become aggressive, in an attempt to stop their owners from leaving.

When you’ve left, the anxious behavior will rapidly worsen and usually will peak within half an hour. She may bark incessantly, scratch and dig at windows and doors (an attempt to escape from confinement and reunite herself with you), chew inappropriate items, even urinate and defecate inside the house. In extreme cases, she might self-mutilate by licking or chewing her skin until it’s raw, or pulling out fur; or will engage in obsessive-compulsive behaviors, like spinning and tail-chasing.

Upon your return, she’ll be excessively excited, and will leap around you in a frenzy of delight for a protracted period of time (more than the 30 seconds to one minute of a happy, well-balanced dog.)

This extended greeting is a source of some misunderstanding: without realizing that such a greeting actually signifies the presence of a psychological disorder, some owners actually encourage their dog to get more and more worked up upon their return (by fuelling the dog’s excitement, encouraging her to leap around, paying her protracted attention, and so on.)

If you’re behaving in this way with your dog, please stop. I know it’s tempting and very easy to do, and it seems harmless – after all, she’s so happy to see you, what harm can it do to return her attention and affection in equal measure? – but in actuality, you’re just validating her belief that your return is the high point of the day. So she’s as happy as Larry when you return – but, when it’s
time for you to leave again, her now-exaggerated happiness at your presence is under threat, and she gets even more unhappy when you walk out that door.

Fortunately, there are things you can do to minimize your dog’s tendency towards anxiety. Here’s a short list of do’s and don’ts:

Do:

- Exercise the heck out of her. Really wear her out: the longer you expect to be away, the more exercise she should get before you leave. For example, if you’re leaving for work in the morning, she’ll probably be by herself for at least four hours; and, if you’ve got a dog-walker to take her out mid-day instead of coming back yourself, she won’t see you – the person she really cares about – for at least nine hours. So she needs a good, vigorous walk (fifteen to twenty minutes is the absolute minimum here!) before you walk out that door. More is even better.

- Distract her from her boredom, loneliness, and anxiety by giving her an attractive alternative to pining, pacing, and whining. All dogs love to chew – why not play on this predisposition? Get a couple of marrowbones from the butcher, bake them in the oven for 20 minutes (so they go nice and hard and crunchy – and so she can’t smear marrow all over your furniture), slice them up into chunks of a few inches long, and give her one about 15 minutes before you leave. It’ll keep her happy and occupied, and will act
as a smokescreen for your departure.

- When you leave, put the radio on to a soothing station: classical music is ideal, but any station featuring lots of talk shows is also ideal. Keep the volume quite low, and it’ll calm her down a bit and give her the feeling that she’s got company.

- If at all possible, supply her with a view: if she can see the world going by, that’s the next best thing to being out and about in it.

- Acclimatize her to your leaving. Taking things nice and slowly, practice getting ready to go: jingle your keys about, put on your coat, and open the door. Then – without leaving! – sit back down and don’t go anywhere. Do this until she’s not reacting any more. When there’s no reaction, give her a treat and lavish praise for being so brave. Next, practice actually walking out the door (and
returning immediately), again doing this until there’s no
reaction. Gradually work up – gradually being the operative word here! – until you’re able to leave the house with no signs of stress from her.

Do not:

- Act overtly sympathetic when she’s crying. Although it sounds very cold-hearted, trying to soothe and comfort your dog by patting her and cooing over her is actually one of the worst things you can do: it’s essentially validating her concern. Make sure she can’t tell that you feel sorry for her: don’t ever say, “It’s OK, good girl” when she’s upset!

If you’re interested in getting a more detailed look at how to deal with your dog’s separation anxiety, you might like to check out SitStayFetch.

It’s a great learning tool for anyone who wants to learn how to deal constructively with their dog’s problem behaviors.

All of the common behavioral problems are dealt with in detail, and there’s a great section on obedience commands and tricks too.

Check out the SitStayFetch website here:

With reference to my earlier post about three legged dogs, Maddy made the news. Read about it here:-

http://www.quantock-veterinary-hospital.co.uk/news#news-36

The thought of a dog with only three legs is rather traumatic to most of us.  However, most animals seem to be even more resilient than humans, especially in the case of a limb being amputated.  Animals are much more resilient and adaptable to such conditions than us humans. In about a week a dog that’s had an amputation can be mentally and emotionally every bit as good as before. 

 Amputee dogs tend to forget that they only have three legs, and  most find navigating downstairs tricky.  Using non-slip mats around the house at strategic places can make things a little easier, and can help to avoid some accidents. 

Walking your triped dog on a lead will need some thought on your part.  In fact a full harness will offer more support than a standard collar.  If you must use a collar please make it a wide one as a certain amount of pulling will take place as your dog uses it to take some weight in some circumstances. Your dog will find it easier to walk faster rather than slower.  Sudden changes of direction are difficult without all four legs, and can result in a fall.  Therefore if your dog pulls on the lead you should avoid the training technique used by some trainers of making a 180 degree turn.  Also remember that the weight that should be supported by the missing leg is now transferred to the remaining three.  Therefore expect your dog to tire more easily and realise that there is extra weight and strain on the other legs, joints etc.   You must endeavour therefore to keep the weight of your pet under control.  To this end swimming is a first class exercise. It is also an excellent therapy for strengthening the remaining leg muscles. It’s always a good idea to invest in a dog life jacket, even for dogs that have got all four legs, and for the three-legged canine it will provide added buoyancy and help combat fatigue. 

In general triped dogs can be as happy and as well balanced as other dogs.  It is possible however to find that other over-lively dogs may be too much.  If this is the case you should try to protect your dog from these encounters as much as possible.  If he is left to deal with these encounters entirely alone it may cause anxiety and even an aggressive attitude.

Three-Legged Dog: Poems

If you let your dog sit on your furniture, it would be best if you file down the nails. Clipping a dog’s dew claw is every bit as important.  Read the whole article here:

http://EzineArticles.com/?id=2723755

Chewing can help the soreness that goes with teething so give your dog a chewing bone or toy as a reliever when the puppy tries to chew on your fingers.Provide your pet with an assortment of toys that are an appropriate size to help maintain your dog’s interest. Chewing on things, such as sticks, the furniture and golf balls, may be good exercise for his gums, but is not very healthy, especially if he were to swallow the wrong thing. Or, in the case of the furniture, just chewing on it is not a good way to endear  himself to you. 

Chewing on bones can help to keep the teeth clean and massage the gums. Raw bones are less likely to splinter than cooked ones, but there is a possibility that they may harbour salmonella bacteria.

Start by getting your pet used to having their mouth opened. Allow them to taste pet toothpaste – most will eat it quite happily from the toothbrush. Regular human paste is not good. Toothpaste designed specifically for pets does not contain soap, so it won’t foam up, and it can be swallowed safely. Toothpastes configured for people can upset your dog’s stomach. Pet toothpastes may contain several different specialised active ingredients.

Start brushing your dog’s teeth while they are still a puppy and you will find it much easier to perform the job as they age. Begin  slowly, using a cloth or piece of gauze to wipe the teeth, front and back in the same fashion you will eventually be using with the toothbrush. Do this twice daily for about a fortnight and your dog should be familiar with the approach.

Dental care for dogs is a rapidly expanding field of medicine, but is a  new concept for many dog owners and potential dog owners. However, many of us have the hope to give our pets long, healthy lives, and this is an useful way to contribute to that ideal.

 
Tartar build-up can be removed from teeth by rubbing with a solution of not more than three percent hydrogen peroxide. Advanced build-up requires scraping with dental instruments.  (Don’t try this yourself at home) Tartar can only be removed from a dog’s teeth if it is taken care of from the moment the dog is still a puppy. This is actually managed by not allowing tartar to form at all on his teeth.

Plaque begins to develop within hours after brushing. Within about three days, plaque is converted into tartar.

Plaque Prevention – Your local veterinarian surgery can instruct you on using or applying a dental sealant. The sealant forms a clear barrier over the teeth that prevents plaque from forming. Plaque doesn’t restrict itself to older dog. There are dental devices available for dogs to chew on to help remove plaque and now some dog foods contain an ingredient  which helps to remove plaque/tartar.
Brushing  your dog’s teeth on a regular basis will also help to alleviate bacteria, tartar build-up and dental disease in your dog.  A natural oral care gel or oral care spray is suggested, thereby permitting the safe and healthy removal of tartar from your pet’s teeth. Brush one or two teeth at once as well as the gum in that area, for about a dozen to and fro motions, then go on to the adjacent teeth. Brushing a dog’s teeth is never easy but, depending on your dog and  it’s diet, it may be really necessary. So, first consider what you are feeding your dog.

Tooth brushing is best but if the dog won’t allow you to brush it’s teeth then giving it something to chew that rubs on the sides of the teeth is useful. 

Although dogs do not usually get cavities in their teeth, tooth problems result from soft foods that can leave debris in gum pockets at the base of the teeth, known as gingivitis.

Ready for the show?

A lot of people are discouraged from keeping dogs through the impression that the hobby is costly and that it implies an unrewarding amount of inconvenience and anxiety; but to the genuine dog-lover the anxiety and inconvenience are far outweighed by the delights of ownership, and companionship.

Regarding the expense, that is a matter which must be organised in a businesslike way.   A richly equipped kennel of expensive dogs, who are mollycoddled into illness might, indeed become a severe drain on the owner’s bank balance, but if handled in a sensible way the occupation is capable of yielding a very respectable income. The enjoyable excitement of putting forward one’s pets to the judgment of the show-ring, and the pleasures of breeding and raising ought to be their own reward, as they commonly are. Having said that, something more than mere pocket money can be attained by the alert amateur who has a kennel of recognised merit, and who recognises how to monetise that asset.  A champ should easily be able to realise his own living, indeed some are a source of generous income.

Occasionally one hears of very high prices being paid for dogs acknowledged to be perfect specimens of their breed, and size constitutes no measure of a dog’s market value.  It calls for an expert eye to comprehend the capabilities of a puppy, and there is always a component of speculation and risk for both buyer and seller.

Numerous a dogs that have been sold for a song has developed into a celebrated champion. Uncertainty adds spice to a sideline that is in itself absorbing.

The novice cannot easily go too far wrong or be too severely cheated, but it is advisable when making a first purchase to accept the advice of an expert and to be very sure of the dog’s pedigree, age, temper, and condition.

The approved method of purchasing a dog is to choose one advertised for sale in the regular journals dedicated to the dog. A more beneficial way yet, if a dog of dignified ancestry is sought, is to apply direct to a well-known owner of the required breed, or to travel to one of the great annual shows, and from there choose the dog from the benches, buying him at his catalogue cost.

In deciding the choice of a breed it must be realised that some are better watch-dogs than others, some more docile, some more dependable with youngsters. The size of the breed should be proportional to the accommodation available. To suffer a St. Bernard or a Great Dane plundering about a small home is an inconvenience, and sporting dogs which require considerable exercise and freedom are not suitable to the restricted life of a down-town  flat.

Nor are the long-haired breeds at their best draggling around in the wet, muddy streets of a city. For town life the clean-legged Terrier, the Bulldog, the Pug, and the Schipperke are to be preferred.

Bitches are cleaner in the home and  usually more amenable than dogs. The thought that they are more hassle than dogs is a false belief.  The difficulty comes up only twice in a year for a few days, and if you are vigilant there need be no mishap.

If only a single dog, or two or three of the smaller varieties be kept, there is no urgent need for an outside kennel, although all dogs are the better for life in the open air.

The responsibility for feeding him ought to be in the hands of one individual only. When it is everyone and nobody’s responsibility he is liable to be neglected at one time and overfed at another. Regularity of feeding is one of the secrets of successful dog-keeping.

It should likewise to be one person’s responsibility to ascertain that
he has regular access to the yard or garden, that he has access to plenty of clean drinking water, enough outdoor exercise, and a comfortable bed.

For the toy and delicate breeds it is a good plan to have a dog-room set apart, with a suitable cage or basket-kennel for each dog.

Even fragile toy dogs however, should not to be permanently accommodated indoors, and the dog-room is only complete when it has as an annexe a grass plot for playground and free exercise.

Next to wholesome and regular food, fresh air and sunshine are the prime essentials of healthy condition. Weakness and disease come more often from imprudent feeding and housing than from any other cause.

For the kennels of our British-bred dogs, perhaps a southern or a south western aspect is the best, but wherever it is positioned the kennel must be sufficiently sheltered from rain and wind, and it should be furnished with a covered run in which the inmates may have full freedom. An awning of some kind is necessary. Trees give good shelter from the sun, but they hold moisture, and damp must be avoided at any cost.

When only one outdoor dog is kept, a kennel can be improvised out of a packing-case, supported on bricks above the ground, with the entranceway properly protected from the weather. No dog should be permitted to live in a kennel in which he cannot turn around at full length. Properly built, portable, and well-ventilated kennels for single dogs are not expensive and are greatly to be favoured to any unskilled   makeshift structure. It is usually the single dog that suffers most from imperfect accommodation. His kennel is more often than not too small to allow an effective bed of straw, and if there is no railed-in run attached he must be chained up.

The dog that is kept on the chain becomes dirty in his habits, miserable, and ferocious. His chain is frequently too short and is not supplied with pivots to avoid kinks. On a sudden alarm, or on the appearance of an intruding tabby cat, he will oftentimes leap forward at the risk of dislocating his neck. The yard-dog’s chain had better be fitted with a stop link spring to weaken the effect of the sudden jerk. The method may be employed with advantage in the garden where there are several dogs, a separate leash being used for each. Hostile dogs can thus be kept safely separate and still be to some extent on the loose.

There is no perceptible advantage in keeping a guard dog on the chain instead of in an enclosed compound, unless he is expected to go for a possible burglar and attack him. A wire-netting enclosure can be constructed at very little cost. For the more powerful dogs the use of wrought-iron railings is recommended, and these can be fitted with gates and with revolving troughs for feeding from the outside.

Thoughts differ as to the most effective material for the flooring of kennels and the paving of runs. Asphalt is suitable for either in mild weather, but in summer it gets uncomfortably hot for the feet, unless it is partly composed of cork. Concrete has its advantages if the surface ca be maintained dry. Flagstones are cold for winter, likewise tiles and bricks. For terriers, who enjoy tunnelling, earth is the most effective ground for the run, and it can be kept free from dirt and buried bones by a rake over in the morning, while tufts of grass left round the margins supply the dogs’ natural medicine. The movable sleeping bench must, of course, be of wood, elevated a few inches above the floor, with a shelf to keep in the straw or other bedding. Wooden floors are open to the protest that they soak up the urine; but dogs ought to be taught not to foul their “nest”, and at any rate a frequent disinfecting with a solution of Jeyes’ fluid or similar should fend off impurity, while fleas, which take refuge in the dust between the planks, may be forced out or kept away with a sprinkle of paraffin.

Whatever the flooring, painstaking cleanliness in the kennel is a prime necessity, and the interior walls should be frequently limewashed. It is crucial, too, that no food waste or bones should be left lying about to become putrid or to encourage rats, which bring in fleas. If the dogs do not eat up their food when it is dished up to them, it should be taken away until hunger gives appetite for the next meal.

A lot of breeders of the large and thick-coated varieties, such as St. Bernards, Newfoundlands, Old English Sheepdogs, and rough-haired Collies, give their dogs nothing to lie down upon just clean bare boards. The coat is itself an adequate cushion, but in winter weather straw gives added warmth, and for short-haired dogs something soft, if it is only a piece of carpeting or sacking, it is needed as a bed to protect the hocks from abrasion.

Clean cold water must be at hand all of the time in all weathers, and a drink of milk coloured with tea is nourishing. Goat’s milk is particularly suitable for the dog

It is a misapprehension to suppose, as many persons do,that meat diet provokes eczema and other skin troubles; the opposite is the case. The dog is by nature a carnivorous animal, and wholesome flesh, either cooked or raw, should be his staple food. Horseflesh, which is frequently used in large establishments, is not so fully to be relied upon as ordinary butcher meat. There’s no serious objection to bullocks’ heads, sheeps’ heads, bullocks’ tripes and paunches and a little liver given occasionally is an aperient food which most dogs enjoy. But when it can be afforded, wholesome butcher’s meat is without question the proper food. Oatmeal porridge, rice, barley,linseed meal, and bone meal ought only to be thought of occasional add-ons to the usual meat diet.

Well-boiled green vegetables, such as cabbage, turnip-tops, and nettle-tops, are good mixed with the meat; potatoes are questionable.

Of the various advertised dog foods, many of which are excellent, the choice might be left to those who are fond of experimentation, or who seek for handy replacements for the outmoded and healthy diet of the household. Ailing dogs need invalid’s handling; but the most beneficial course of action is usually the simplest, and, given a healthy constitution to begin with, any dog should to flourish if he is just decently housed, carefully fed, and gets copious exercise.

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The act of chewing appears to be a subject of individual preference among dogs: some have an natural desire to chew as an enjoyable natural action in itself, and many seem to have no motivation to chew whatever unless they’re forced to it out of sheer boredom.

The phrase “destructive chewing” may sound redundant, because – by its very nature! – all chewing is destructive. Your dog has strong jaws full of sharp, pointy teeth: almost anything she starts to chew on is probably going to show the consequences of it within of a minute. So just to clear up, when I use the phrase “destructive chewing”, I’m referring to inappropriate chewing: the sort of chewing that’s centred on your own possessions and household items, instead of on your dog’s own designated playthings and chews.

The three principal reasons why dogs chew:

1- Most dogs have a natural want to chew. It’s fun, it passes the time, and it’s a self-rewarding, self-reinforcing natural action (for instance, if she’s chewing on something that tastes good.)

2- Chewing provides a nervous, bored, or lonely dog with an outlet for her emotions. To an anxious dog, the repetitive act of chewing is soothing – it’s the doggie equivalent of comfort food.

3- Underexercised dogs frequently practice chewing as a means of burning up nervous energy and affording themselves something to do.

- How to prevent destructive chewing -

Dogs are perfectly able of learning not to chew your stuff – you only have to invest in a little effort first, that’s all.

1. Take control of the situation: manage your own possessions. Your first step should be to dog-proof your home. Even if you’ve the best-behaved hound in the world, there’s still no grounds to test her self-discipline – after all, dogs explore the world with their mouths.

Dog-proofing your household entails removing whatever you don’t want to wind up in her mouth, and making it inaccessible. Consider her size and agility whilst deciding whether something’s out of reach: could she leap? Could she climb, or jump onto something else to reach the wanted object? How tall is she when upright on her rear legs?

Common targets in the house include books, eyewear, clothing, shoes, refuse, and little crisp gadgets like cameras, cell phones, and remote controls.

It should go without stating that all food requires to be put firmly away: don’t leave snacks on low tables (or even countertops – you’d be amazed how athletic she could be once there’s food at stake!), put all food into containers or the pantry. Wash your unwashed plates clean of any food food waste before leaving them by the sink.

2. Forestall her from acquiring the delights of misappropriate chewing. The more times she manages to snatch a jawful of a disallowed substance – a chair-leg, a pillow, a running shoe – the more readily she will target those items in future. If you are able to forestall her from chewing your belongings in the first place, it’s a great deal easier for her to realise what you expect from her. Practically speaking, this means limiting her in a dog-proofed area until you’re convinced of her understanding of the household conventions.

3. Don’t set her up for failure through confusing the boundaries between her stuff (OK to chew) and your stuff (not OK to chew). Don’t proffer your dog discarded clothes, shoes, or towels to chew and play with: realistically, you can’t possibly expect her to be capable to distinguish the difference between your latest shoes and the one she’s got in her mouth that you handed her five minutes ago.

4. Supply her with lots of mouth-watering choices to your stuff. Whenever her surroundings is comparatively empty of attractive, appropriate chewing objects, you can scarcely blame her for targeting your possessions. Remember, most dogs need to chew; if she’s an adolescent (below three years) or a puppy (under one year), her needs will be yet more pronounced. Go out  on a toy and chew shopping fling, and then give her two or three to play with at once. Rotating the available playthings every few days will keep  things fresh and stimulating for her.

5. Spend lots of time in physical supervision. Yes, it might be less demanding for you to just keep her confined  in her crate, run, or the yard – but that’s boring and horrible for her, and scarcely much fun for you either (if you wished-for a pet that you don’t require to interact with, you’d have acquired a goldfish, right?) She can not learn what you expect of her if she’s passing all her time enclosed  in the dog-proof zone: she requires the chance to explore the limits of your expectations, so she can realise what’s appropriate and what’s not.

6. When you catch her chewing something improper, interrupt her by producing a loud noise: clap your hands or make an “Ah-ah-aaaah!” noise. Then, immediately give her a mouth-watering and dog-appropriate alternative (a rawhide bone or other chew toy); as soon as her jaws close round it, praise her extravagantly. There is no more beneficial way to get your dog to realise that chewing “her” toys equals praise from you, but everything else equals hassle.

- Keep up a productive attitude -

Most importantly, remember to keep your expectations realistic. You’re not perfect, and neither is your dog: there’s probably  going to be at least one incident where a treasured item is destroyed by her curiosity.

Especially in the early phases of your relationship, she’s still learning the ropes: it’ll take awhile before she’s totally reliable (and even then, if she’s left alone by herself for too long or feels neglected, she may prefer your stuff over hers to occupy her time and jaws with.) Remember to afford her time to memorize the rules, and plenty of ‘you-time’ to help her learn quicker – and don’t forget to take precautions and keep things unreachable until she’s mastered  the chewing rules!

For more information on dog training techniques and how to deal with problem dog behavior (like chewing), check out Secrets to Dog Training. It’s the complete manual for dog ownership and is designed to fast-track your dog’s learning.
You can visit the Secrets to Dog Training site by clicking on the link below:
http://tinyurl.com/n76ywd

Are you really ready for a puppy?

Just checking in to remind you that a new series of reports are now available here.

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